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    The description :welcome to the official berry bros. & rudd wine blog, offering news and views from our masters of wine and those with a finger on the pulse of the wine world. have your say by joining in the debates....

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berry bros. & rudd wine blog about contributors archives links contact us follow us june 8, 2018 who makes the rules? author: sophie thorpe share this post illustration by maría hergueta as the new wine rules hits shelves, we leaf through jon bonné’s latest book and talk to the san francisco-based author declaring a new age of fearless wine-drinking there is an endless supply of lighter literature aimed at making wine “easy” – pressing, filtering, fining, simplifying and compacting the vinous world to give you 100-or-so pages in which to become an instant expert. as much as i’d like it to be – wine isn’t like that. the very endless complexity that makes it so interesting – and indeed so daunting – can’t be chopped into bitesize buzzfeed-friendly chunks. so, when i saw that american wine writer jon bonné – one of my very favourite journalists, author of the new california wine and senior contributing editor at online magazine punch – was publishing a book called the new wine rules , i doubted him. i feared that he had lost his way, potentially led down an alluringly income-lined road to offer coffee-cup wisdom to the masses. having now devoured both us and uk versions of his book, it’s clear that i should have kept my faith. the title is perhaps a little misleading. yes, the book is ordered into 89 “rules”, but really this is a book filled with the titbits every wine lover will – or should – learn during their vinous career. the new wine rules wraps them up into one neat little tome – wittily phrased, prettily illustrated and perfectly bound. the declaration on its front cover that it is “a genuinely helpful guide to everything you need to know” doesn’t overstate its utility, but neglects to state the sheer joy of this book. “the past couple of generations of wine lovers have spent their lives guided by fear – of displaying bad taste or revealing what they don’t know. screw that. wine is too great a thing to be limited by fear,” declares bonné. the new wine rules is a manifesto for the modern wine drinker – jon champions the idea that, in the 21st century, there are no rules; and the one thing we should all do is “drink wine with joy”. the new wine rules by jon bonné morsels of advice range from “a wine’s price rarely reflects its quality” and a “cool matrix” of regions and grapes, to “don’t save a great bottle for a rainy day”: there is almost nothing that i don’t heartily agree with. the introduction – unlike too many wine books – swipes away the potential superiority of the author: “my wine life isn’t that different to yours: i’ve walked into plenty of wine shops and gotten lousy advice, i still struggle through wine lists [… and] i’ve had sommeliers talk down to me more times than i can count.” it is this undercurrent of accessibility, a tone that is conversational rather than preachy, that makes this a book i’d happily give to non-wine friends. and that is the intention. while the book doesn’t shy away from technical details in places (you can “never go wrong talking up to people,” jon says), its intended audience is people who are just starting to learn about the subject – people who have an interest, but not yet the knowledge. jon’s inspiration came when he and his wife ended up – accidentally (and subtly, i’m sure) – eavesdropping on a group of young professional women in a restaurant in san francisco. they were clearly engaged and keen to drink something good, but they floundered trying to pick a wine. jon decided there was a place for a modern guide that would help wine-drinkers just like them – too many introductory books in circulation were “living in a world that doesn’t exist anymore”, he told me, explaining the difference between sauvignon and chardonnay. and, thank goodness, the new wine rules is deliciously, moreishly different. it might seem with the new california wine, the new wine rules and the new french wine on the way, jon bonné is hooked on what’s “new”. when i ask him why and whether this is something we should be seeking out, he chuckles. “aside from being a really great sales hook, you mean?” with his background in journalism, he is driven by “what’s emerging, what’s coming, what’s new” to make his writing relevant. he’s also seen many wine critics caught covering the same thing for 20 years – a rut in the road which he is keen to avoid. from a christina aguilera reference and advice on avoiding unnecessary gadgetry, to “let the term ‘unicorn wine’ die a quiet death” and “beware the fruit salad”, the book is packed with so many quotable gems that i could go on forever (or at least until i’d copied out all 17,000 words) – so go, buy it, read it yourself, give it to friends, and drink every bottle with as much joy as jon seems to. the new wine rules (quadrille, £10) is out now. share this post leave a comment category: miscellaneous june 6, 2018 summertime sundowners author: alexis self share this post lavender fizz a chilled glass of sherry and some salted almonds before dinner is an appealing prospect at any time of year, as is a crisp, fizzing flute of blanc de blancs; however, on a balmy summer’s evening (or, indeed, afternoon), it is hard to beat the feeling of an ice-cold cocktail clinking away in one’s hand. this is as true if you’re barefoot on a beach in crete, as in a pub garden in fleet. so, with that heady imagery in mind, we asked our in-house experts to put together three seasonal cocktail recipes designed for beach, balcony, lawn or sofa. cin cin! lavender gin fizz this one does what it says on the tin: the weapon of choice if one is entertaining in-laws or the mysterious mr gatsby from across the sound… 60ml no.3 london dry gin 30ml lemon juice 15ml sugar syrup 4 dashes of lavender bitters soda water, to top sprig of lavender, to garnish shake all the ingredients, except the soda water, together. strain into a high ball glass and top with soda water. garnish with a sprig of lavender. the breeze the breeze “summer breeze, makes me feel fine, blowing through the jasmine in my mind” : if we didn’t know any better, we’d say the isley brothers were singing about this supremely sippable summer tipple. 60ml no.3 london dry gin 15ml cranberry cordial (one-part sugar syrup, three-parts cranberry juice) 25ml pink grapefruit juice 5ml maraschino liqueur pink peppercorn and black salt, to garnish shake all the ingredients over ice and double strain into a chilled coupe. garnish with pink peppercorn and black salt on the rim. cloud 3 cloud 3 to get to cloud 9 you must first stop off at cloud 3, but – after a taste of cloud 3 – you might not wish to move on. 50ml no.3 london dry gin 20ml elderflower cordial 15ml apple juice 10ml citric acid (ration 1:100 acid to water) 20ml egg white a splash of dry sparkling wine camomile flowers, to garnish shake all the ingredients over ice and double strain into a chilled champagne flute. garnish by floating camomile flowers in the foam. browse our range of seasonal spirits on bbr.com , including 10 percent off our no.3 gin until 30th june . share this post leave a comment category: miscellaneous , spirits june 4, 2018 summer chez olia author: sophie mclean share this post olia hercules. photograph: joe woodhouse as weekends start to fill with al fresco feasts and grand picnics, we caught up with chef and food writer olia hercules to uncover her summer staples and the inspiration behind her new book from her east london, roman road studio and residence, ukrainian born chef and writer, olia hercules, spends time (happily) juggling the freelance lifestyle in and around publishing her highly acclaimed cookbooks – her debut, mamushka , was shortly followed up by kaukasis in 2017. proof of her current “in-demand” status means our telephone conversation from one end of the capital to the other is pushed back an hour, due to an unexpected visitor dropping in. although usually residing in london over her six-year-old son’s summer school holidays, this year they will spend six weeks back in the ukraine, time required for researching and writing olia’s new book, a regional summer kitchen – an ode to traditional ukrainian summer cooking, due to be published in april 2020. i ask her what she means by “kitchen”? something a little more literal than anticipated. “we have a separate mud or brick-made structure where we cook in the summer because it is so hot. it’s a room that is a house, usually with a make-shift bed. couples would get married let’s say in april and stay here before moving into the bigger house together once it had been built. it’s symbolic of starting a life together. it’s super romantic.” having grown up both in the ukraine and then in cyprus from age 12 to 18, olia has clearly had a substantial mediterranean influence on her diet: “i spent five years there eating fish and salads,” she tells me. this influence was no doubt then further magnified after studying italian and spending a year living in urbino, a town east of florence. in italy, her own summer experiences evoke memories of the freshest ingredients, often made from very little: “i stayed in sicily for a few months and one of the most amazing things was having an artichoke so fresh – you just peel the leaves off and almost eat it raw.” an enviable spread prepared by olia hercules for our summer photo shoot. photograph: joe woodhouse i ask her about summers in the ukraine. “we lived right by the riverbank so we would spend them with a bucket of crayfish, a handful of dill, and a few cold beers.” olia grew up in a small town, in a rural area where they grew much of what they ate. she mentions specifically her love for the unrefined sunflower oil – her one item she says she can’t live without when it comes to summer entertaining: “it’s like a sesame oil. it’s strong and aromatic, and tastes and smells like toasted sunflower seeds.” she recommends it being served liberally on tomatoes and cucumbers. olia grew up in the south of the ukraine, 1.5 hours from the crimea border and the sea of azov – the shallowest sea in the world. “we used to go there a lot when we were younger. it’s lovely by the river. we’d have a ukrainian picnic – more of a barbecue really, by the river – we’d catch fish and make fish soup, with loads of vegetables and fresh cheeses. there’d be loads of stuffed bread. my mum makes these moldovan stuffed breads, with kaffir and herbs – sorrel and dill, feta-style cheese and spring onions.” here in london, olia says the crayfish party tradition continues. “we don’t have a garden, but we do have a terrace,” and she has her own unique way of sourcing the crop. “there’s a guy in london called crayfish bob – who catches all the american ones. they’re a pest really to the main variety and he sells most of them to london zoo to be eaten by the puffins, but sometimes i get the rest.” while her new book will explore meat, fish and dough – the highlights of her own summer parties, she is also keen to explore pickling and preservation – making “ukrainian style kimchi” amongst other things: “we ferment all sorts; aubergines – we blanch these, mix them with oil and mint. we do it with tomatoes, with whole watermelons – whatever you’ve got we’ll ferment it.” an ukrainian custom, she says, that must come from the vikings or nordics. this also happens traditionally in the summer kitchen. “it’s there that we do our preserving and fermenting when the temperatures begin to drop again.” olia hercules was the food stylist for our summer photo shoot; browse our seasonal “essentials” here , and find olia’s cookery books here . share this post leave a comment category: food & wine , miscellaneous june 1, 2018 en rama: the salty herald of summer author: lenka sedlackova mw share this post sanlúcar de barrameda, photograph: jason lowe with en rama season upon us, we ask lenka sedlackova mw to explain just what en rama sherry is and why it remains the wine trade’s insider-secret for the ultimate summer tipple summer is here! well, sort of. as i am writing this, at the end of may, raindrops fall on the window and i’m trying to keep the flooding at bay, dreaming of warmer days and the sort of evenings that call for a cold glass of salty, nutty, delicious fino sherry. one of the many delights of summer for us in the wine world is the annual release of en rama sherry. here at berry bros. & rudd, we are lucky enough to work with one of jerez’s finest producers, bodegas emilio lustau . three times as lucky in the spring, because that is when lustau bottle and release not one but three different en rama sherries – fino de jerez, fino del puerto and manzanilla de sanlúcar. perhaps it is my personal greed coming to light here, but why have one, when you can have three? lustau is unique in that they are the first and only bodega to make biologically-aged sherries in all three towns of the sherry triangle – jerez, el puerto de santa maría and sanlúcar de barrameda. you might wonder how different these sherries can be to warrant three bottlings; after all, the towns are not that far from each other. but for the production of sherry, the local microclimate is hugely important. the town of jerez is furthest from the sea and here the conditions are less humid than in el puerto or sanlúcar. humidity is important for the production of “ flor ”, the live yeast that grows on the surface of what we call “biologically-aged” sherry wine as it ages in old wooden casks; it protects the wine from oxygen, acting as a barrier between liquid and air. flor also imparts salty, yeasty, nutty flavours to the sherry. a fickle thing, flor likes very specific growth conditions and those include high humidity, as well as a very particular alcohol range of around 15 to 15.5 percent. even within individual bodegas the taste can differ from cask to cask, simply based on how far it is from the door or windows, or how high it is off the ground. the lower humidity of bodegas in the town of jerez results in a thinner veil of flor, and as such less delicate but nuttier flavours. jerez finos are therefore the most full-flavoured and rounded of the biologically-aged sherries. manzanilla is a fino aged in the coastal town of sanlúcar de barrameda. sanlúcar is located on the estuary of the guadalquivir river which brings in a breeze from the atlantic ocean. the humidity is high and the flor grows the thickest here. manzanilla is famous for its delicate, salted almond and camomile flavours. this area also has some gorgeous sandy beaches so makes for a great holiday destination, too. some people may try and tell you that manzanilla’s saltiness comes from the salt being carried into the winery by sea breezes, but whether salt can penetrate into wooden casks is somewhat questionable. finally, the coastal town of el puerto enjoys a mild climate all year round. the style of fino del puerto does, conveniently, combine the best of the other two, fullness of flavour but with a delicate see-breeze character. en rama sherry is only released once a year. the timing is crucial, around april is when the flor is at its thickest, having enjoyed optimal growing conditions during the humid, cool winter months. lustau selects the best casks of each style from each of the three towns and bottles them straight from the cask. this is important and is what en rama stands for – unfiltered, “raw” sherry. if you’ve ever been to jerez and had the fortune to taste sherry straight from the cask, you will know how utterly delicious it can be when it’s so fresh. and if you haven’t, well, these en ramas are the closest you will get to that experience. most standard sherry is always lightly fined and filtered, to keep the bright colour and a longer shelf life – and it never tastes quite the same . en rama allows you to experience the “taste from the cask”, at home. this does mean that en rama is intended to be enjoyed as fresh as possible. while it won’t degrade quickly and can be kept for months, the salty delicacy will simply slowly give way to nuttier flavours. not something i see at home; once it’s in the fridge, it’s as good as gone! our lustau “3 en rama” sherries have now docked in the uk. en rama cries for traditional tapas and i’d recommend serving them with salted marcona almonds, a plate of jamón iberico (de bellota, if you can find some) and juicy green olives: it’s one of life’s simple pleasures. shop our range of en rama sherry here . share this post 1 comment leave a comment category: port and sherry « older elsewhere -- bbr.com | facebook | twitter | youtube | pinterest subscribe to blog updates by email © berry bros. & rudd wine blog. powered by wordpress and manifest

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https://blog.bbr.com/
https://blog.bbr.com/author/sophie-mclean/
https://blog.bbr.com/2018/06/08/who-makes-the-rules/
https://blog.bbr.com/2018/06/06/summertime-sundowners/#respond
https://blog.bbr.com/about-this-blog/
https://blog.bbr.com/author/sophie-thorpe/
https://blog.bbr.com/contact-us/
https://blog.bbr.com/archives/
https://blog.bbr.com/links/
https://blog.bbr.com/2018/06/04/summer-chez-olia/#respond
https://blog.bbr.com/page/2/
https://blog.bbr.com/2018/06/01/sherry-en-rama-the-salty-herald-of-summer/#comments
https://blog.bbr.com/author/alexis-self/
https://blog.bbr.com/category/spirits/
https://blog.bbr.com/2018/06/08/who-makes-the-rules/#respond
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